When to go
Most markets open in the last week of November and close on December 23 or 24. Prague, Zagreb, Copenhagen, Tallinn, Kraków and Edinburgh stay open into early January, which is the better window if you are flying long-haul and want cheaper fares after the holiday peak.
Weekdays beat weekends
Saturday evenings at Rathausplatz or Marienplatz are shoulder-to-shoulder. Go Tuesday to Thursday, arrive around 4 pm for the lights coming on, and eat dinner at 7:30 pm once the stall crowds thin.
Cash, mugs and deposits
Almost every stall takes tap-to-pay now, but mulled-wine mugs carry a 2-5 EUR deposit refunded when you return the cup. Keep a few coins for public restrooms.
Dress for standing still
You will be outdoors, not walking, for hours. Thermal layers, waterproof boots and gloves matter more than a heavy coat.
Two cities, one trip
Vienna-Budapest is 2h40 by rail, Cologne-Brussels 1h50, Munich-Salzburg 1h30, Prague-Dresden 2h15. Book direct with the official operator: OBB, Deutsche Bahn, SNCF or Trenitalia.